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Articles


Living The Surf | by Evandro dos Santos


Evandro - Mole Beach, Florianopolis 2005


Evandro - Mole Beach, Florianopolis 2005


It all began in 1982, when my family used to spend the weekends in some relative’s house at Barra da Lagoa beach, making barbecue. At some given moment one of my cousins, an older one that used to surf, has landed me his surf board. From that day on my life acquired a meaning.

Back then I was 10 years old and the one thing I could think of was surf. Nonetheless to live surf professionally was a far away dream. By that time there wasn’t much info about surf lying around and surfers were treated like junkies and bums. It was the early of the sport in Santa Catarina state (Brazil) and I believe no one lived exclusively out of surf.

In that scenario I was just a teenager willing to surf for the simple pleasure of sliding on the waves. Rubber clothes (neoprene) nearly didn’t exist. I remember on cold days we used to wait for the waves with no more then the head out of the water. When living the water we held the board in front of the body to protect against the wind.

As time passed my father bough a terrain and built a beach house for our selves, so we could come every weekend. So I began to surf the mornings and study the afternoon. Nothing was planned and few by few surf became my life.

Barra da Lagoa beach is great to learn how to surf because its bottom of sand is plain and you can choose the size of the wave as you move right, depending on your skill level.

When you want too much what you dream of you can have it if you are able to pay the price of realization. The first step is to really want, then know how to do it and, finally, do it exactly as it must be done. This process can take days, months or years, but as greater is the dedication and effort greater is the result.

I remember when I decided to professionalize and make of surf my specialty. On rainy, windy and cold days, even without rash guard, there I was, practicing, working and willing to improve on each wave caught. Understand the ocean, winds, waves, types of boards for each situation, weight distribution on the board. It all take time to learn. Nonetheless this knowledge becomes natural with time if you have discipline and are dedicated.

“- Today many people think
to teach surf is just push
the board and scream UP!”

Be humble and accept the teaching life gives us, whether on our experiences or on the words we listen, is fundamental for us to grow spiritually. Today many people think teaching surf is just push the board and scream UP!.

The notion of the whole universe of surf must be tough with responsibility so that everybody understand not just the practice on a board but the essence of the sport. It’s not enough to be an excellent surfer. You must be an excellent person also.

Many teenagers today, when learning to surf, learn also the sport’s philosophy and develop wealthier inhabits and a greater integration with nature, knowing how to respect and value life and it self. The parents support Is very important, since the sport helps the emotional development, so that the youngster increase it’s self-esteem and feel more safe in this turbulent part of life.


 

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